Contrary to misguided popular belief, you don't actually have to be super fit to ride a long way on your bike. It's only like doing your normal commute, then doing it again and again. The two most important factors are to be comfortable on your bike and to keep your energy levels topped up by eating and drinking.

Nevertheless it is worth increasing your mileage gradually and in stages before a long distance ride, so you're not stepping up the distance too much at one time. If you've already ridden 40 kms, that 60 km ride will feel much more achievable. Practice rides will also tell you whether you need change anything in terms of your bike or equipment.

A word of caution: change nothing on the day itself; use only tried-and-tested components, clothing and nutrition. The way it works with a lot of people is they only try things out or decide to use special items on the big day itself, which can throw a wrench in the works even if it's something as simple as you not knowing how to use the item.

And remember to travel light to make the journey easier. The essentials should fit in your jersey pockets, a seatpack, and one or two bottle cages.

Prepare your bike

Your bike needs to be set up so that it's comfortable for you. Comfort comes from a combination of bike fit and bike components, particular the handlebar, stem, and saddle.

The commonest mistake is a handlebar that's set too low, resulting in aches and pains in your hands, lower back, shoulders, and neck as the mileage rises. Many riders lack sufficiently low gears. If you find hills hard, ask your local shop to fit a wider-ratio cassette. Most road bike derailleurs will cope with cassettes up to 30 or 32 teeth, while mountain bike ones will handle sprockets as large as 40.

Soft tyres are a problem for some riders, increasing rolling resistance and the risk of punctures.Pump them up!

What to wear

Padded bike shorts. Padded Lycra shorts come into their own for a long ride. They're designed to be worn next to the skin, without pants. Bike shorts are more comfortable than waist shorts because the shoulder straps keep them snug against your body, and they don't dig into your belly. If you suffer chafing, apply a layer of Sudocrem to your nether regions before donning the shorts.

Jersey. Cycling jerseys are close fitting and stretchy so don't flap about, and they don't get clammy like cotton T-shirts. But that's not all they're good for! Three rear pockets will hold snacks and spare layers, while a front zip allows ventilation.

Eyewear. Tinted glasses stop you squinting on sunny days and also keep wind and insects out of your eyes. Not to mention they make you look super stylish!

Gloves. With comfortable bar tape or grips you might not need gloves, but they provide a bit more padding to your palms, and the fleecy thumbs can be used to wipe sweat – or your nose.  

Arm covers. If you would rather not have an obvious tan line where your bike jersey sleeve ended (and they usually end pretty high up), then slip on a pair of arm covers! They not only block out the sun, but can be used to keep your arms nice and warm in colder conditions.   

Cycling shoes. Shoes for cycling have stiff soles for comfortable, efficient pedalling. Almost all are designed for clip-in pedals. It's possible to ride long distances in trainers, however. Even a pair of good climbing sandals will do the trick!

Waterproof or windproof top. A good waterproof and windproof jacket will keep rain and chill breezes off your body but will fit into a pocket when it's not needed. Ideal for when conditions become unfavourable in the midst of your ride. Try to find jackets that can be conveniently packed small enough to fit into a jersey pocket to minimize load and space. They don't have to be thick or even fully opaque, as long as they can do the job.

Tools and spares

Tyre levers. Take two - good ones.

Spare innertube. Make sure it's the right size and valve type for your bike and your pump. If you've got room in the seatpack, take two tubes. 

Patches. If you puncture after fitting your spare tubes you'll have to fix one. Or perhaps you'd rather try and salvage the existing one without using up the spare straight away. Either way, you can turn to a handy patch kit!

Self-sealing 'glueless' patches take up least space in your seatpack but traditional glued patches can effect longer term repairs.

Pump. Racer-types carry compressed air cartridges, but a pump is reusable. Mini-pumps are super portable but traditional, long frame-fit pumps are easier to use. Mini floor pumps are a good compromise.

Multitool. It needs to have any Allen and Torx key sizes your bike uses, plus a Phillips head screwdriver and a chain-splitter.

Chain 'quick link'. Make sure it matches your chain. Quick links go by various names: MissingLink, PowerLink, etc. And they're cheap! However, you'll want to install them on your chain before you leave the workshop, because you will need to punch out an existing chain link to fit the quick link on.

A few cable ties. Can be used for various temporary repairs.

Food & drink

Water bottle. One large (750ml) water bottle will be enough if you can refill it. Otherwise, take two. You can fit two water bottles to any bike – behind the saddle on a bracket if nowhere else is available. Plain water is a good option in bottles as you can also wash hands or cool your head with it. 

Snacks. Take some snacks that will give you a sugar hit of instant energy when you need it. That could be energy gels or bars, flapjacks, cereal bars, bananas, whatever you enjoy. If you get chance, eat some 'real' food en route too. Sugary stuff gets sickening after a while.

Cash or plastic. You'll want this for a meal during or after the ride. It's handy to have if things go wrong too. Take just one card and/or an RM50 note in a tiny plastic bag.

Miscellaneous

Sunscreen. Apply before setting out, paying attention to your nose, ears, and the back of your neck, or take a sachet of sunscreen with you.

Mobile phone. In a waterproof bag in a pocket or seatpack. If you don't want to take your fancy smartphone, get a cheap pay-as-you-go phone. On the other hand, a smartphone can stand in for the next two items – if it's battery lasts long enough.

Cycle computer. It's useful to know distance travelled, so you know how far you have to go. Even the most basic cycle computer will do this. 

Navigation aid. If you take a wrong turn, you'll ride even further than you planned. The lightest navigation aid is a cue-card with instructions written on it. Other options include a page torn from an atlas, a smartphone, or a GPS cycle computer with mapping.